THE LADY ~'RANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 145

APPENI)ICES

THE LADY ~'RANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 145

146

^{THE LADY} ^FRANKL[~ BAY EXPEDITION.

on what is probably the water shed, an extensive plain stretching to the east as far as couldb~ ~een. We found this little broken by any deep water-courses, though the absenc~ of snow was ~urp~Ismg. The thermometer registered - 55.5[-48.60 C.] and there was quite a perceptible breeze bl~wlhgin our fac~s.

At 3.55p. m. reached some deep snow in a shallow ravine west of an apparently Isol~tedmountain, towards which we had been traveling for one or two hours. Here we dug a hole through^III 3% or 4 feet

[10^m or I.2m ] . The ground was uncovered, the tent and poles were placed over it and snow over them, and here we passed a warm night, though very much cramped for room.

March 6.-At 4.45 a.m, called cook; at 9 a. m. got off, after digging out of our lodgings through the snow. A heavy snow-storm had prevailed during the night. Itwas still snowing, and the nearest land-marks were so obscure that traveling was by no means easy. The character of the country remained pretty much the same, the water-courses, like prairie drains, running to the east.

At ^11.15a. m,reached what I took tobe Newman Bay, a perfectly level expanse, covered with snow, extending to the east, with nothing to break the surface but a group of rocks, which I thought might be an island. But the driving snow did not allow us to see very far. The isolated mountain of yesterday seemed to be the west extreme of a range of hills, the eastern end of which was to the north of us, and which I thought must mark the west shore of the bay. This point I made for, but soon discovered it was earth under my feet instead of ice, and on reaching it found mountains to the northeast of us and the undulations of land to the east.

Took from here a northeast direction.

At 1.05 p. m. strong wind and snow, making frost-bites frequent and traveling in its teeth very severe work. I determined to burrow into a good snow-bank near by. It took two hours and ten minutes to build our abode.

March 7·-The temperature being very low, and much wind, we remained in snow-burrow all day.

March8.-Weather still very bad, but started out at 8 a.rn.,notwithstanding, to make an attempt. Frost-bites became so frequent that I returned in the course of an hour. Observation of temperature of snow house, opening (door) uncovered, 110 lamp, outside, -33° [- 36.¹⁰ C.]; on floor, 6 feet [I.8^{lO ]} from door,

[-:-16.1°C.]; 2~ ^{feet [·7}^6m] above floor, +3¹⁰[-0.6°C.]; roof, between five and six feet [1.5 and 1.8^m] hIgh, temperature, when lamp was burning,

+

^{36° [}

+

^2.2⁰ ^C.Jonly. Just previous to this, however, a hole was cut ~nthe roof and a piece of canvas placed over it to serve as a window, candles having been forgotten,a~d none brought on trip. The temperature, doubtless, afterwards got much higher than this.

These expenments were performed just after return of the party.

. March 9.-~t ^3·3? ^a.^rn,cook arose; at 5.15a.m, breakfast; at 6.45 a. m, got off, and followed a

sl~ght.surface dra.m,.whlch grad~ally?ecame a wide and deep ravine, leading us in a generally northeast direction (very winding]. In this ravine, not far from the bay, four ptarmigan were seen. Here also I shot a hare.

At 9.^{2 0} a. m•.on shore of Newman Bay; Reynold's Island not to be distinguished. I think we must have been some distance up the west coast. The whole bay is smooth and level. The snow on its surface hard. \Ve traveled. along very satisfactorily, though all had to walk. Yet the load consisted of little else than t:nt and sleepmg-bag. . The low temperature seemed to cause great friction. On little patches of ice m.et WIth, the.sled~emoved along very smoothly indeed. We walked almost continuously during the entire tnp, ThereISno Ice-foot along this coast.

At 3 p. m. reached

Boa~

^Camp. Found readily the whale-boat and the canvas boat. The former has

one-half dozen oars by her SIde Did not t h r . . .

. . urn er over lor want oftime and not regardmg It as necessary.

!hese boats are substantially as described in the English reports. The hole in the bottom of the whale-boat

IShardly larger than one's hand; otherwise the boat seemed in good order and condition. Examined the bottom carefully.

from

~~ 4~

⁵^p.^In.reached. a point at or quite near Cape Sumner, when we pitched the tent. The route t· ebl

°r

^at^C1am_dP here lies on a snow slope behind a row of heavy floe-bergs The route could be made

prac rca e lor oa ed sledges only with s 1 h ' . .

from the straits into the ba about' mi ere seems to be a good route over some level floes which exten e S di Y . idwaybetween the two capes. Between the Boat Camp andCape

umner, exten mg some hundred yards fro th h .

. m e5 ore, the Ice is of the roughest description.

Listofstores at Thank God Harbor and their condition.

J.

B. LOCKWOOD,

Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O.

First Lieut. A. \V. GREELY,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Iuternational Polar Expedition.

147

I barrel cornmeal (of yellow color), good. (?)

6 cans pemmican (4s-pound cans) forme" to eat, good.

1hammer, machinist's,good.

I grindstone (betweenrz and 20inches diameter),good.

I bag tea (in barrel), spoiled.

I smallbox minie-ball cartridges and caps, apparently good.

3coverlets, felt, good.

Iwaterproof1100rcloth (for s·man tent), serviceable.

32s-poundbags ^NO.2shot, good.

I 2s-poundbagNo.2 buckshot, good.

2volumes " Punch," bound, good.

I book ( - - ) ,good;

THE LADY FRANKLIN BA.Y EXPEDITION.

March lo.-Last night was cold and uncomfortable in the extreme. The sleeping-bag was unrolled with difficulty, and with as much labor we wedged our way in between the frozen folds.

At 3 a. m, cook arose. I deposited the tent and poles, sleeping-bag, one spade, one shovel, one snow knife, and a piece of cooked musk meat (about ten pounds) on the side of a small ravine or break in the cliffs, about 100 yards [9Im] west of Cape Sumner, or at least west of my camping place, and in a con-spicuous position.

At 6.55 a. m. left camp and took a direct route for Cape Beechey. For some hours we traveled over level floes; then we encountered the undulating surface of paleocrystic floes, and afterwards made slow and laborious progress through rubble ice; then for an hour or two we traveled over a perfectly smooth, level floe. It coming on to blow and snow, so as to shut out even the nearest land,I inclined more to tho right, and, after about an hour through bad rubble ice, at 3.ISa.m., reached the Grinnell Land shore, about a mile above Cape Beechey, traveling principally over a snow slope.

At 3.45a. m. passed our outward tracks at old crossing,

At 5.20 a. m, reached snow house (depot B). The level floes which I speak of as encountering in the morning, seemed to extend south in a course nearly parallel to the coast, and probablyas lowas the Gap.

I think that the best route to Cape Sumner lies in my original tracks across the straits till, perhaps, two hours from Promontory Point and the Gap, and then in taking advantage of the level floes which I have men-tioned as extending south from Cape Sumner. My trail from Cape Sumner to Cape Beechey is not practi-cable for loaded sledges without much work with the ax.

March II.-At 8.30 a. m. called cook; at II.IO a. m, got off; at 2.05 p. m. passed depot A; at S.lS p.m, arrived at station.

Appended will be found the meteorological report of Sergeant Jewell, as also the list of stores at Thank God Harbor.

Very respectfully,

J4barrel wheat, apparently good.

2Enfield rifles (1862), apparently good.

~canister gunpowder, small grain, in roo-pound canister, serviceable.

900 rounds Springfield cartridges, metal, cal. 50, apparently good.

1,000cartridges, center primed,Navy pistol, cal. 50, apparently good.

1,000cartridges, center pr.med, Navy pistol, cal. 50, apparently good.

J,000cartridges, center primed, Navy pistol, cal.50,apparently good.

8 brass hinges, 4 brass rowlocks, 6 brass castings, 8 brass castings,²brass hooks, good.

1box farina (about 30 or40pounds),Polaris,apparently good.

,

r

148

^{THE LADY} F~ANKLIN B~Y EXPEDITION.

List of stores at Thank God Harbor and their condition-Continued.

1book (Eulalie) good.

1book (Foul Play), good.

1book (Albert Nyanza]by Baker, good.

About 3 dozen panes glass, about8x 10, 8X 12,&c.,good.

2snow knives, good.

1tent brush, good.

1boxshotgun cartridges (center primed), apparently good.

1zo-footice-boat (complete), apparently^Jas well as could be ascertained without turning her over (she lays bottom

f,

^excellent.

I stove (cog-wheels and spindle), apparently good.

I coil insulated wire on large iron cylinder. 1 can rum (English can about size of signal can and has about3 inches in bottom), excellent.

1 sledge trough, serviceable.

I I crowbars (iron), good.

3 blue scarps, good.

2 cooking-lamps, good.

It should be added that as thorough an inspection as desirable of everything was not obtained, a cold wind with snow making such work very severe. '

The observatory has three sides standing; the floor is also all right; the roof is gone. There are several planks and other debris scattered around, which probably once formed part of the observatory.

Enough of these remain, I think, to complete the building once more. All stuff in the observatory was moved out and afterwards replaced and covered as well as practicable. Covered the barrels of hard bread with old canvas; their heads are all out.

Newman Bay. _i~nn_I---NE. Brisk_I Cloudy -1-h-- ", ^{h _} NE. Br~sk_,Cloudy_I-43

I

^-41.7

~E. Bnsk_1Lt.snOw! __^h ^{_ _}_I

Meteorological report of sledgeparty to Cape Sumner.

Barometer

R. H. A.

PRINTED RECORD.

Start, on our return to the ship, to-day, Ap. ad, We leave in the observatory 10 rations of bread and 45 rations of stearine,

149

ROBERT H. ARCHER, Lieut.

2 Cases farina, 2casks of lime juice.

I cask of molasses.

An observatory rather dilapidated, Borne few artl-cles of clothing, two stoves, and a few other sundries.

Cape Lupton and found the ice better in the middle

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

1,125pounds pemmican (two-thirds sweet).

I, 152pounds preserved meat.

24barrels of bread.

3 casks of pork.

2casks of hams.

2bags of bread.

We crossed straight over from Bellot Harbour to but difficult travelling at the sides.

ApPENDIX No. 40.-English records obtained at Thank God Harbor.

[Arctic Expedition. H. M. S. Diu(J'l)ery at Bellot Harbour. Lat. 81⁰ 44' north, long. 65° 3' west. 3_t March, [816.]

This paperis deposited by a sledge party, under Lieut. R. Archer of the Dis(()1)'1'Y,who came over to se~the state of the provisions in depot here. 'I'he things seem to be good and serviceable. The: following things were-found here:

[H. M. S.Discovery, winter quarters, Bellot Harbor. Lat. 81 44 N., long. 65 3 14 W.]

On the 15th July, 1875, H. M. S.Alert and Discouery left Disco for Rittenbenk, arriving there on the 16th. Left on the 17th for Proven, passing through the Waigatt Channel. Anchored at Proven on the 19th. Embarked Hans Christian; left on the 21St, steaming inside the islands of Upernivik on the 22d, left again the same evening by the northern entrance, experienced dense fogs until discharging the native pilot off Kingatok on the 2Jd. Then shaped course to the northward of Brown Island, which was abeam at 4.30 p. m.; weather fine, clear, and calm. At 3.10 a. m, of the 24th ran into the middle pack ice of Melville Bay, lat. 73⁰ 30' N., long. 60⁰ W., approx., patent log showing 63 miles from Brown Island. Ice from 2 to 6 feet [.6 to 1.8^m

J

thick, but much decayed. Steamed through the bay in 36 hours without diffi-culty,Afer!proceeding to the Carey Islands andDisaniery to Cape York; the two ships joined off the Carey group at midnight of the 26th. By 6 a. m, of the 27th, both vessels were on their way to Port Foulke, passing between Hakluyt and Northumberland Islands. Anchored in Hartstene Bay on the 28th. Cap-tain Nares visited Littleton Island. Left Hartstene Bay on the 29th for Cape Isabella, Alert erecting a cairn south of that cape, and Disc07.Je1Yproceeding to Cape Sabine, where we were detained tillthe 4th of August (Smith Sound being completely blocked up with ice); rounded Cape Sabine and proceeded up Hayes Sound, intending if possible to pass to the westward of Henry Island; finding no passage we retraced our steps on the 6th, and secured to the ice in Franklin Pierce Bay on the Sth, Left again on the 9th, and made fast to floe under Cape Prescott till the r rth, Cut into dock in Dobbin Bay on the 13th.

Rounded Cape Napoleon on the 15th, and experienced great difficulty in getting to Cape McClintock, which was not reached till the zoth, lat. 80⁰

3'

N., long. 70°31' \V. On the 21St observed open water in midchanneI; we took advantage of it until reaching Joe Island, when a barrier of ice extending from Cape Moreton to Grinnell Land stopped further progress. Anchored in Bessell's Bay on the 23d. Left again on the 24th, unable to get to the northward of Newman Bay. 'Ve closed the SF:. comer of Grant's Land, entering a large and deep bay on the north side of Lady Franklin's Strait named Bellot Harbour, the winter quarters of H. M. S.Discovery', TheAlertleft on the 26th, having embarked Lieut. Rawson, with 1 men and sledge complete, from this ship. The Discovery was frozen in on the 5th of September; no autumn sledging to the northward in Robeson Channel, or Lady Franklin's Strait to the westward, in consequence of water along the shore, as well as the sludgy state of the ice, which rendered it impracticable for either boat or sledge to make any progress.

r

150

THE LADY FRANItLIN B,A.Y EXPEDlrION.

H. F. STEPHENSON, Captain.

[H, F. STEPHENSON],Captain.

R. B. FULFORD, Lieut., R. N.

L. A. ^BEAUMONT, R.

s;

Lt.

June3rd -Lieut. Rawson arrived, with party of 4 men, having left Lieut. Beaumont about 4₀ miles along the coast, N. E. from Repulse Harbor. Lieut. Rawson was sent back from the advance party with

J. J.

Hand, A. B.,suffering from scurvy, who died the night of his arrival here.

June7/h.- Lieut Fulford, Dr. Coppinger, and party returned from Peterman Fiord; they advanced to a distance of30 miles, but were eventually stopped by glacier ice.

Jun~22d.-Lieut. Rawson and Dr. Coppinger, with dog-sledge, proceeded in search of Lieut. Beaumont and party (due at Hall's Rest, Polaris Bay, June 15th ) ; Lieut. Rawson met the party in Newman Bay June 25^th, the whole of them being sick with scurvy, 4 having to be carried on the sledge.

J~nt²⁹^Ih^{.- Dr.}Coppinger, withWm.Jenkins, Car Ute, and Chas. W. Paul, A. B., on dog-sledge, arrived at Hall s Rest at ~2'30 a. m.; Chas, ,"V. Paul, A. B., died that afternoon at S.15 p. m. , JUly ISf.-LIeuts. Beaumont and Rawson, with remainder of party (two carried) arrived safely at Hall s

Rest, Polaris Bay. '

z:

12th.-Lieut. Fulford, with dog·sledge, proceeded to H. M. S.Discovery, Discovery Bay (Bello^t ar or.

JUly 19^fh.- Captain Stephenson, with party of 6, arrived from the ship.

yu~

²⁹^fh.-^1ntendleaving, with Lieut. Rawson and 7 men, for Discoveryto-day, All invalids doing well. LIeutenant Beaumont, with remainder of party, hope to follow in a week.

H. F. STEPHENSON, Captain.

10 MAY, 1875,

Lieut. Fulford and Sub-Lieut.Conybeare, with 18 men and ² ice-boats, arrived here at ² a. m. of the rath May, 1876, having left H. M. S.Discoveryat 8 p. m. of the 7th inst.

Capt. Stephenson, Mr. Hart (naturalist), Henry Petty, and Hans Christian (Esquimaux), with dog-sledge, arrived at 2 a. m. of the r ath May, having left Discovery at 8 P:m. of the loth inst,

Dr. Coppinger,with Geo. Emmerson and 8 men in two sledges arrived here from" Refuge Harbour"

at 7.3⁰ p. m, of the 15th May, 1876. Dr. Coppinger parted company with Lieuts. Beaumont and Rawson on the 5th May, at Cape Stanton, their party being all well. Geo. W. Emmerson left H. M.S. Alert at Floe-berg Beach on the ad inst., in lat. 82° 27', long. 61⁰ 22' W.

Capt. Stephenson, Sub-Lt. Conybeare, Mr. Hart, and party of 27 men, left this harbor at 8.10 a. m., of the 11th May, 1876, for H. M. S.Discouery, Discovery Bay. All well.

Lieut. Fulford, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger, 2 men, and dog-sledge, leave at 10 a. m., this day, the 17th May, for Newman Bay, with depot for Lieut. Beaumont.

AU!.f.

7th:-Star~

to.day for Discovery Bay, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger and remainder of party (7);

have waited Since Friday (4th) on a t f h . . d wn

. ' . ccoun 0 t e very bad weather. Great quantity of Ice has gone 0

the strait during this last gale.

25th March, 1876, received news. Alertwintered in lat. 82 27N., long. 61 22 'V. All well. Parties fromAlertexploring north coast of Grinnell Land, and due north over Polar pack. Parties from Discouery exploring North Greenland and Peterman Fiord. Lady Franklin Straits is a deep sound bearing S. 'V.,60 miles, terminating in two small bays. All well to this date.

Welostthe sun on the 16th Oct., 1875, until the 29th Feb., 1876, making 135 days absent.

The winter was" passed pleasantly and cheerfully, with very little sickness. The country abounds in musk-oxen, hares, ptarmigan, snow-bunting and lemmings, with two sorts of seals in the bay, so tha: ,we have had a liberal supply of fresh meat. The weather has been very cold but fine and calm. Ourposinon is so well sheltered that we have only experienced two heavy gales. We have heard nothing of the Alert since August, 1875. Expect news before the 1St of April (1876). Intend visiting Hall's Rest when prac-ticable.

All well up to this date.

R. B. FULFORD, Lt.

151

R. B.FULFORD, Lt.

R B. FULFORD, Lt.

---_._--~._--CRAWFORD CONVBEARE, Sub-Lieut.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

[H. M. S.Discovery. Winterquarters, Bellot Harbour. Lat. 81 44 N., Long. 653 14 W.]

H. F. STEPHENSON, Caplail1.

*Only letter-press copies ofthes;~cor&b~~ht^back,which, having been wet, are in places illegible, A. W. G.

Duplicate ofprinted recordon page 149:

Much 28, 1876.

Received news ofAlerton 25th March, '76. She wintered in the pack off the west coast of Robeson Channel, lat. 82° 27' N., long. 61° 18' IS" W., close to the shore. "All well." Three sledges will foUow the north coast of Grant's Land, now trending to the N. W., and this party endeavours to proceed to the northward over the ice. Parties from the Discovery will explore the north coast of Greenland and Lady Franklin's Straits.

Provisions in depot, r zth May, 1876: Preserved meat (?),. 926; American, 1,035; biscuits (all good) 1,990; tea, 356; hams, 570; stearine, 182; cask Indian meal, I; cask wheat, J; cask of pork, J ; cask of molasses,

%;

casks of Iime-juice, 2; cask of pickles, I.

Depot left in boats, for Lt. Beaumont, consisting of 7 days for '7 men, or II9 rations, with the excep-tion of pemmican, biscuit, tea, and bacon.

The supplies of stores and provisions left in depot at Polaris Bay by the late American Arctic Expe-dition may be used if requisite by any travelling party arriving there from the Alert or Discovery. The commander of each party is held responsible that no waste or damage of either the provisions or fuel occurs during his stay. He is to separate from the stores such supplies as may be required to place his crew on the regulated scale of rations, and secure the remainder in the best manner possible. A book will be left at the store in which the commanding officer is to note the date of his arrival at and departure from the depot and the quantity of supplies he has used. He should also note any information in his possession, relating to the stores or the neighborhood, which might prove of value to future visitors. A copy of eacn entry in the store book is to be given to his commander on the return of the party to their ship.

G. S. NARES, Capt.R. N., Comdg, Arctic Expdn.

To Captain Stephenson, H. M. S. Disc07.Je1Y, and all in command of sledge parties arriving at the Polaris Bay depot.

Im Dokument PROCEEDINGS OF THE UNITED STATES EXPEDITION (Seite 168-190)