This appendix explains the criteria by which firms have been selected by examining their name and the description of their activity. Not all textile firms have been selected, but only those that could be identified as carrying out one of the production phases described by the model. In order to include all words with the relevant root, only parts of keywords have been included in the search. In most cases, computer search had to be integrated by manual refining.
Carded Spinning Search for entries that entail FILATUR [spinning], or PROD [pro-duction] and FILAT [spun fabrics], excluding those that entail LANIF [woolen mill] or COMM [commerce], VENDIT [selling] or PETT [combed spinning].
Subsequent manual exclusion of spinners that also declare LOCAZIONE [ten-ancy], PERSONALE DIR [managing personnel] or COPERTIFICIO [blanket production] without FILATURA [spinning].
Combed Spinning Search for entries that entail FIL [spinning] and PETT [combed]
but not TESSITURA [weaving]. Manual exclusion of a firm that declared to produce MOQUETTE [carpets].
Dyeing Plant Search for entries that entail TINTORIA [dyeing plant]. Manual exclu-sion of entries that also entail LAVANDERIA [laundry].
Finisher Search for entries that entail FINISS [finishing], RIFIN [refinishing], NOBIL [ennoble] but not PELLICC [fur], GUANTI [gloves], CONFEZION [clothes], ABBIGLIAMENTO [clothes] and METAL [metallic]. Manual exclusion of re-finishing of synthetic furs.
Middleman Search for entries that entail IMPANN [middleman] and LANIF [woolen mill] but not C/T [for a third party], S.P.A. [large firm]. Search for TESS [tex-tiles] but not C/T [for a third party], FINANZ [financial] and COMM [com-merce]. Manual exclusion of entries that suggest activities for third parties:
TESSITURA [weaving], ORDITURA [warping], RIFINIZIONE [refinishing], FINISSAGGIO [finishing], CONTROLLO [check], RAMMENDO [mending], TINTORIA [dyeing], PELLICCE [fur] and FIBRE SINTETICHE [synthetic fibers].
Rags Collector Search for entries that entail STRACCI [rags] or CASCAMI [fabric waste] but not LAVORAZ [processing], TRASFORMAZ [transformation], SFI-LACCIATURA [fraying out], STRACCIATURA [tearing], CARBONIZZ [car-bonization], CARTA [paper]. Subsequent exclusion of LAV [washing].
Trader Finished Products Search for entries that entail COMM [commerce] or ES-PORT [export] or RAPPRESENT [commercial agent] or INGROSSO [whole-sale], and TESSILI [textile] and PROD [products], or TESSUTI [textiles] or STOFFE [material].
Trader Raw Materials Search for entries that entail COMM [commerce], IMPORT [import], RAPPRESENT [commercial agent], INGROSSO [wholesale] and LA-NA [wool] or FILATI [spinned materials] or MAT and PRIME and TESS [textile raw materials]. Manual exclusion of entries connected with the wool guild.
Warper Search for entries that entail ORDIT [warper].
Weaver Search for TESSITURA [weaving], TESSUTI [textiles], ARTICOLI TESSI-LI [textile articles], PRODOTTI TESSITESSI-LI [textile products] and INDUSTRIA TESSILE [textile firm] but not S.P.A. [large firm], GRUPPO [group] or GROUP [group] unless they explicitly declare to work C/T [for a third party]. Exclusion of entries that entail also FILATURA [spinning], VENDITA [selling], COMM
[commerce], FINANZIARIA [financial], MODA [fashion], ABBIGLIAMEN-TO [clothes], CONFEZIONI [clothes], FIBRE SINTETICHE [synthetic fibers]
and generic sentences such as LAVORAZIONE TESSUTI [textiles processing].
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